DATE: Victorian, c.1880

Stunning Victorian harlequin necklace, circa 1880. It's fully strung with natural seed pearls and 19 individual gemstone drops including: blue sapphire cabochon, white sapphire, almandine garnet, chrysoprase, opal, hessonite garnet, turquoise, mabe pearl, emerald, ruby, and tourmaline (with some duplicates). Each of the gemstone settings features three seed pearl drops at the bottom as well as the collet-set central gem. Crafted in 9 karat gold with original barrel clasp and safety chain still present.

The name "harlequin" was often used to describe jewellery set with many different coloured gemstones. It's in reference to Harlequin, one of the "comic servant" characters from the Italian Commedia dell’Arte tradition who was introduced in the late 16th century and popularised by Tristano Martinelli, the "Master of Harlequins". Characterised by his brightly chequered costume, he usually served as a direct contrast, sometimes in competition, with the sterner and melancholic Pierrot. The role was that of an astute, nimble, and overly light-hearted servant who would often attempt to thwart the plans of his master while pursuing his own love interest, Columbina.

STONES 

Blue & white sapphire; almandine & hessonite garnet; chrysoprase; opal; turquoise; mabe pearl; emerald; ruby; tourmaline

MEASUREMENTS 

Wearable length: 13.5 inches

WEIGHT 

10.8g

MARKS 

No marks present, tests as 9k gold

CONDITION 

Good, some light/general wear commensurate with age